How I Turned the Worst Slab at the Yard into a Stunning Epoxy Resin Slab Table

Ever lock eyes with a slab of wood and think, “Wow… what a disaster. I need that in my life”? Yeah, me neither. But somehow, that’s exactly what happened one fateful trip to the lumber yard. I walked in looking for potential and walked out with what might’ve been the ugliest slab in the entire place.

This thing was rough. Three busted sections trying (and failing) to pretend they were still one piece, a suspiciously spongey soft spot, and a shape that would make a geometry teacher cry. Naturally, I thought, “Let’s turn this into a high-end epoxy resin table.”

And, well… my mom said it turned out beautiful. So, you know, that’s something.

Why I Chose the Slab Nobody Else Wanted

There were good slabs at the yard. The kind that make you feel like you know what you're doing; straight grain, clean lines, even a few with that chef's-kiss live edge thing going on. But for some reason, I walked past all of those and stopped in front of what looked like the runt of the litter.

Big John, who runs the yard, took one look at me, one look at the slab, and smirked. “You know, I keep the good ones in back to push someone into taking this one.” Challenge accepted, Big John… Challenge accepted.

That Moment When You Realize Your Table’s Actually Three Tables

Back at the shop, reality hit fast. What I had wasn’t one solid slab at all, it was three sections being held together with what I’d generously call optimism and a few scrap braces. The second I cut it into a circle, it was gonna crumble faster than a dollar-store folding chair.

So before I did that, I flipped it over and made what I like to call “wooden Band-Aids.” They were off-cuts from the slab, shaped into little rounded reinforcements. Glued 'em on the underside to give it a fighting chance. It felt appropriate. This whole thing needed first aid.

 

Size Matters, Especially When You’re Comparing to IKEA

I was aiming for a 42-inch diameter. Might not sound huge, but for a coffee table? That’s a big boy. IKEA’s versions usually cap out around 35 inches, and I know what you’re thinking: “What’s seven inches?” Trust me, it’s the difference between a cozy coffee table and one that makes a statement. Same reason you should always spring for the large pizza.

Rot Happens, and You Deal With It

Then came the soft spot. You know when you poke something and it pokes back? That’s what was going on here. I wasn’t sure if it was rot or some weird punky grain, but either way, it wasn’t staying. I started out gently chiseling little bits here and there. But eventually I gave up the surgeon act and grabbed the metaphorical axe.

Yeah, it meant a much larger epoxy section than I planned, but like Big John says, “Creativity is the ability to problem-solve.” Not the textbook definition, but it works for me.

Building the Form (and Learning the Hard Way)

To prep for the epoxy pour, I used a melamine circle as a routing template. Should’ve used it on the slab too because it would have saved me some time, but hey, experience is what you get right after you needed it. I sealed the form, caulked the edges, hit it with mold release, and sanded the slab like it owed me rent.

One small problem though: the slab and the form were exactly the same size. No wiggle room. So I ended up chamfering the underside of the slab just enough to let it sit snug inside the mold. Not elegant, but effective. Crisis averted.

Pour #1: All This Prep for a Few Glorious Minutes

If you’ve ever done epoxy, you know the build-up is intense. You spend hours prepping for a pour that takes maybe three minutes. But when it goes well, i.e. no leaks, no blowouts, it feels like a win. That first pour was smooth as glass. I used TotalBoat Fathom Deep Pour, and it did exactly what it was supposed to do.

While that cured, I shifted gears and got to work on the base.

Designing the Base: When “Too Cool” Isn’t Cool Enough

Originally, I had this poetic idea for a base that mimicked the Y-shape of the slab. It looked great on paper but felt like I was trying too hard. So I pivoted to a more classic design that was clean, modern, something that wouldn’t fight the top for attention.

Understated elegance. That’s the vibe.

Why I Switched to Three Legs Mid-Build

Somewhere in the middle of all this, I got it in my head that a three-legged base might look better, (probably had too much coffee). But I cut one of the legs in half and started messing around with layouts and connector pieces using off-cuts from the slab.

It wasn’t the plan, but it was interesting. And fun. So I went with it. Sometimes the best decisions are the ones that don’t make sense until they’re done.

Templates were a lifesaver here. If you’ve ever tried shaping hardwood into organic curves, you know the pain. Templates keep things repeatable and sane. And yes, I use them for nearly everything.

Templates, Domino Joiners & That $480 Tip

I get asked all the time: “Should I buy the big Domino or the small one?” My answer? Save your money and get the small one. I’ve never once needed the big one, and the small one can handle almost everything.

I just saved you $480. Or, I cost you $1000 if you weren’t planning to buy one and now you are. Either way, you’re welcome.

Peeling Off the Mold: Satisfying and Also... Not

Popping off the landscape edging? Pure joy. Legitimately smiled. The melamine base, though, did not come off easy. It bonded like it had abandonment issues. We ended up grinding the whole thing off with a power planer. Lesson learned: next time, triple the mold release spray.

Flattening the Top With CNC: Worth It? Maybe.

Instead of taking it to a wide belt sander, I used my CNC to flatten the slab. It took nearly seven hours. Was it smarter? Maybe. It saved me a trip, and I could multitask. But it also meant babysitting the machine like a toddler with scissors.

Still… kind of nice to not leave the shop.

Final Touches, Edge Details & Unexpected Geometry Lessons

Ever need to find the center of a circle? Here’s a trick: draw two non-parallel chords, bisect them perpendicularly, and where they meet? That’s the center. Geometry turns out to be actually useful.

I added a large chamfer underneath the top, rounded over the top edge, and gave the base a crisp thumbnail profile. It started to look like something. Like, real furniture.

Attaching the Base: MythBusters Style

Before gluing everything down, I tested how strong the connection would be. Tried to break the threaded inserts with a hammer. No dice. They held. I mounted the base using epoxy pucks and some hardware, and it felt solid enough to survive a mild apocalypse.

Applying Finish: Where the Magic Happens

I sprayed water-based poly on the maple base to keep it light, and for the top? Sanded until my arms gave out. But then… the grain popped. And I kind of get it now. That feeling when finish hits the wood just right? It’s like fireworks. Quiet, satisfying ones.

The Big Reveal

This whole thing started with the worst slab at the yard. Broken, soft, kind of tragic. And now? It’s a bold, beautiful, and totally unique epoxy resin slab table.

Is it the most beautiful table in the world? Depends who you ask. But it proved to me that even the ugliest piece of wood can become something worth showing off.

And just like pizza…always go with the large.

When I was overcompensating for something… a boring slab

This project started with a chunk of wood that was—let’s be honest—kind of boring. It wasn’t even an entire slab, just a leftover piece from another project. But when wood is underwhelming, you overcompensate. And that’s exactly what I did.

Cleaning Up the Slab

Before doing anything—boring or interesting—I had to deal with some rotten wood. Functionally, the slab was totally usable; it just didn’t look great. My solution was to remove all of the bad wood from the surface and about half an inch down, ensuring none of it would be visible in the final piece. This also meant I wouldn’t need as much epoxy to fill the gaps.

One thing that I wasn’t thrilled about was how removing the wood left an unnatural-looking break. I had two options: leave it as it was or feather it into a more natural bottleneck shape. I decided to leave it, but I had to wait for the finished piece to know if it was the right choice.

I hadn’t mentioned it yet, but this slab was going to become a desk, and it would be for sale, but I didn’t know if the person who bought it would place it against a wall or in the middle of a room, where all sides would be visible. Because of that, I had to decide: should I cut straight edges or leave them natural?

Deciding the Edges: Natural or Straight?

Thankfully, the piece was already pretty rectangular. One edge had a long, subtle curve, where I imagined someone would sit. The other edge was close to straight. Either option would have worked, but if the desk ended up in the center of a room, the natural edge would definitely look cooler. If it went against a wall, the natural edge was still flat enough that it wouldn’t look too strange.

I followed the natural shape of the edges, removing knots and softer wood just below the bark—also known as phloem. And yes, we had to look that up. Up until 30 seconds earlier, we thought "phloem" was some kind of slime Nickelodeon made in the ‘90s.

Preparing for the Epoxy Pour

If you’ve ever thought about skipping this step and just using tape—don’t. Epoxy is expensive. It will seep through through the tape wasting material, costing you a lot of money, and making a mess. I had to learn this the hard way.

Since I hadn’t cut straight edges, I couldn’t build a traditional form for pouring epoxy. Instead, I made a partial form by attaching melamine to the slab. You can also [watch the video] where I break down every detail of the process.

Epoxy Pour

After a ton of recommendations from you guys, I checked out Blacktail Studio’s epoxy course. I’ll say this—if you plan on doing epoxy work, it’s 100% worth it. I did the math, and the price of the course was equal to about 1.08 gallons of the epoxy we used. So, basically, if it saved me from making one bad mistake, it had already paid for itself.

At this point, my epoxy had been curing for about 48 hours, and I could see that it was still about half an inch below the top of the slab. I used Fathom Thick Set from TotalBoat, which could be poured up to two inches thick. Since my slab was just barely over two inches, I probably could have done it all in one pour. But realistically, you almost always end up doing a second small touch-up pour anyway, so it didn’t really matter.

Building a Ridiculous Base

Usually, I design bases to be subtle, letting the slab be the star of the show. Not this time. Since the slab itself was simpler, I decided to go big with the base. I ran a poll on different designs, combined a few ideas, and even had one person suggest using the slab as firewood. Which I think was meant as an insult, but honestly, I respect the boldness.

 

The concept of a leaning cabinet was where things really took off. I kept refining it and eventually paired it with the design that people had voted for. Once I saw those together, it just felt like the way to go.

Once the template was ready, no matter how complex the shape, the workflow stayed the same. That’s why with all of my plans that use templates, I provide several options to make them as easy as possible. And if someone didn’t want to cut them themselves, I even offered pre-cut templates for purchase.

 

The legs I was building for this desk looked really cool but might have seemed intimidating at first glance. However, they weren’t nearly as difficult to make as they appeared. The hardest part of making these kinds of shapes was just creating the templates.

Getting back on topic, at this point, I had traced out the template shapes onto the workpieces and cut them out, leaving everything slightly oversized on the bandsaw. From there, I used a table saw to cut the two mating joint faces. Then, I glued everything together and let it dry overnight.

Assembly and Finishing

For assembly, I used threaded inserts and bolts instead of screws. Two reasons: First, screws wear down over time, while bolts stay solid. Second, it just feels more premium. It’s the difference between assembling furniture with an Allen wrench versus a screwdriver. One feels upscale, the other feels like Ikea.

For finishing, I used water-based polyurethane on the base to keep the beechwood light, and hardwax oil on the top to make that grain pop. Because yes, I am one of those people who loves seeing the grain pop.

The Final Reveal

Earlier I mentioned that I was overcompensating for the more subtle slab by going bold with the base. In most of my slab projects, I tried to keep the base simple so the slab was the star. This time, I went all-in on the design.

So now the question is: Was it the right choice?

What do you think?